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Amaurine

Can you shower in gold plated jewellery? What water, sweat and sunscreen actually do

· Amaurine, Sydney

Can you shower in gold plated jewellery? What water, sweat and sunscreen actually do — Amaurine

Short answer. You can, and once will not ruin anything. The question is what a thousand showers cost you, and the answer is most of the gold. Clean water on its own is close to harmless. What comes with a shower is not: heat, soap, shampoo surfactants, hair product, and water that sits in a hinge or a clasp for hours after you have dried your hands. Our rule for gold over silver is keep it dry, and it is deliberately a rule rather than a list of exceptions, because a simple rule is the one that actually gets followed. Gold over stainless steel is the one material we make for water; more on that below.


What you are actually protecting

Gold-plated and gold vermeil pieces are a layer of gold bonded to a solid core — sterling silver, or stainless steel, depending on the piece. The gold itself is chemically inert: it does not rust, does not tarnish and does not react with water, chlorine or sweat at any karat.

So nothing you do in a shower attacks the gold chemically. What water and chemistry attack is the bond, and the surface. Repeated wetting and drying, heat, surfactants and residues work at the edge of the layer and at anywhere it is already thin. Then friction takes it from there. The failure is never sudden; it is a finish that looks slightly tired eighteen months earlier than it needed to.

What each exposure does

Exposure What it does to a plated finish Verdict
Cool, clean water Very little, if the piece is dried afterwards Fine — rain, washing hands
Hot water and steam Heat accelerates every reaction, including the ones at the edge of the layer Take it off
Soap, shampoo, conditioner Surfactants lift oils and leave a film in detail and behind stones; conditioner is the worst offender Take it off
Chlorinated pool water One of the three fastest ways to age gold of any kind Take it off
Salt water Same category as chlorine, and it dries into crystals in a clasp Take it off
Sweat, the gym Salt and acid, plus friction from equipment, on the same piece for an hour Take it off
Sunscreen and moisturiser Leaves a residue that dulls the surface and works at the bond over months Jewellery goes on last
Perfume, hairspray Alcohol and resins, sprayed directly at whatever is on the neck or wrist Jewellery goes on last
Hand sanitiser Alcohol, on a ring, several times a day, for years The quiet one; wipe the ring after
Water left in a hinge or clasp Hours of contact in the place the layer is thinnest and the most worked Dry it properly, hinge included

One exception runs through this whole table: Éternelle, our gold over stainless steel. Water-safe: shower, gym and swim. Rinse after the pool or the sea.

The part nobody mentions: where the water goes

A flat surface dries in seconds. Jewellery is not a flat surface. A lobster clasp has a spring inside it, a hinged huggie has a channel, a claw setting has a cavity behind the stone, and a cuff has an opening whose edges are already the thinnest part of the finish. Water gets into all of them by capillary action and stays there long after the piece feels dry to the touch.

That is why a piece worn in the shower ages at the clasp first, and why "it still looks fine" usually means you have not turned it over. If a plated piece does get properly wet, the response is not panic: rinse off any chlorine or salt with clean water, pat it dry, then leave it out on a cloth for an hour before it goes back in the box. Sealing a damp piece into a closed pouch is worse than leaving it wet on the bench.

"Waterproof jewellery"

The phrase does real work in marketing and almost none in physics. It usually means the base metal is stainless steel, which is true and worth knowing: steel does not rust and does not tarnish, so when a gold layer on steel eventually wears at an edge, what shows is bright grey rather than dull brown.

The gold on a steel piece is still a plated layer, so cosmetics and friction wear it as they wear any finish. Water is where steel earns its place: our own steel line, Éternelle, is water-safe for shower, gym and swim. Rinse after the pool or the sea. The longer version is in is gold over steel any good.

What does survive the shower

Solid gold. There is no layer to lose, so a solid gold piece can be showered in for a lifetime — it will still gather soap film, and it will still scratch, but nothing about it is finite. That is a meaningful part of what the price of solid gold buys, and it is the honest reason a plated piece costs what it costs. The comparison across plated brass, gold over silver, gold over steel and solid gold is set out in our Australian guide to gold-plated, vermeil and solid gold.

The rule, and why it is a rule

Last on, first off. Jewellery goes on after perfume, sunscreen, hairspray and moisturiser, and comes off before they go on again.

Keep it dry. Off before the shower, the pool, the ocean and the gym. The exception is Éternelle, gold over steel, which is water-safe and simply rinsed after the pool or the sea.

Wipe it down. Ten seconds with a soft dry cloth when you take it off. This is the habit that does the most and takes the least.

Store it apart. Pouches or a lined box, away from light and humidity — and out of the bathroom, which is the worst room in the house for jewellery and the one everybody keeps it in.

We could give you a graded table of what tolerates what. We would rather give you four sentences, because a rule you follow beats a rule you understand.

How this applies to our pieces

The gold collection is built on two cores. Most of it is 18K or 14K gold over solid 925 sterling silver — the Coulée Drops, for instance, are 925 sterling silver plated in 18K gold, and each page names its own karat. The cuffs and bangles are gold over stainless steel at A$149, including the Portique Cuff, which is stainless steel plated in 18K gold and opens on a hinge that sits behind the wrist. The pieces that carry the word vermeil are gold over 925 sterling silver, specified as vermeil by the maker, and their pages say so.

Gold over silver and vermeil share the same four habits, the same rule about water and the same wipe. Gold over steel differs on water only: the Éternelle pieces are water-safe for shower, gym and swim. Rinse after the pool or the sea. A hinged cuff simply needs the hinge dried, because that is where water sits longest. The full routine by material is on the care page, and every finish at Amaurine carries a 12-month warranty.


Questions

Can you wear gold plated jewellery in the shower?

You can, and one shower will not ruin a piece. Doing it daily will shorten the life of the finish by years. The water is not the problem; the heat, the soap and shampoo, and the water that sits in a clasp or hinge for hours afterwards are. Take it off, and the piece stays bright far longer. The exception is gold over stainless steel from Éternelle, which is water-safe: shower, gym and swim.

Will water ruin gold plated jewellery straight away?

No. Gold does not react with water at any karat, so there is no instant damage. What repeated wetting does is work at the bond between the gold layer and the core, and at the edges where the layer is thinnest. It is cumulative, not sudden, which is exactly why it is easy to ignore until the finish looks tired.

Can you swim in gold plated or gold vermeil jewellery?

Not in gold over silver or gold vermeil. Chlorine and salt water are two of the three fastest ways to age gold over silver — sweat is the third. Salt also dries into crystals inside a clasp. Gold over stainless steel from Éternelle is the exception: it is water-safe for shower, gym and swim. Rinse after the pool or the sea. If any other piece does go in, rinse it in clean water, pat it dry and leave it out for an hour before storing it.

Is stainless steel jewellery actually waterproof?

Éternelle, our gold over stainless steel, is water-safe: shower, gym and swim. The steel does not rust and does not tarnish, and when the gold does wear at an edge, what shows is bright grey rather than dull brown. Rinse after the pool or the sea. Dry the hinge if the piece has one.

What should I do if my gold plated piece gets wet?

Rinse off chlorine, salt or soap with clean water, pat the piece dry with a soft cloth, then leave it out on the cloth for an hour before it goes back into a pouch or box. Sealing a damp piece into a closed container is worse than leaving it out to air.

Does sunscreen damage gold plated jewellery?

It dulls it. Sunscreen, moisturiser, hairspray and perfume all leave residues that sit on the gold and, over months, work at the bond beneath. Cosmetic chemistry ages a finish faster than ordinary wear does, which is why the first habit is last on, first off: jewellery goes on after all of it.